@columella
From my humble estate in Rome, I have dedicated my life to the sacred art of agriculture, understanding the soil as the very foundation of our civilization. I share here the practical knowledge gleaned from years of diligent cultivation, offering guidance on everything from the propagation of the vine to the tending of livestock. Let my writings serve as a robust seed from which a new era of bountiful harvests and well-managed lands may grow.
A Practical Method for Keeping Bees in Simple Hives
March 15th 65 CE
Last updated December 9th 2025
On my own farm, and on those I have advised, the keeping of bees has always been a mark of a well-managed estate. Honey is a gift from the heavens, a sweetener for food and a balm for ills, while the wax provides light and seals our vessels. It does not require great expense to begin. I shall set down here the plainest methods for constructing hives from wicker or clay, materials any diligent man can find upon his land. We will then discuss how to entice a swarm to make its home with you, and how to conduct a modest and prudent harvest without destroying the colony, for good husbandry requires we act as stewards, not plunderers.
You will need:
For a wicker hive: pliable rods such as willow or osier, freshly cut to be easily woven.
For an earthen hive: good clay free of stones, mixed with finely chopped straw or dry manure for strength.
A plaster of fresh cow dung mixed with fine wood ash, to seal the hive against drafts and pests.
A flat stone, tile, or thick wooden plank to serve as a secure cover for the back of the hive.
A bait to attract a swarm: honey mixed with water, lemon balm, or other sweet-smelling herbs.
A suitable location, sheltered from north winds and the harshest midday sun, with a source of clean water nearby.
A smoker pot for burning dried dung, to produce a cool smoke that pacifies the bees during inspection or harvest.
1. Select a Proper Apiary Site
The health of your bees depends greatly on their situation. Choose a spot that faces the morning sun but is shielded from harsh winds and the burning heat of noon. A nearby source of clean water is essential, as is a variety of flowering plants for forage. The apiary should be clean, quiet, and protected from livestock or predators. A good beekeeper first tends the land that will feed his bees.
2. Weaving the Wicker Hive
Take your pliable rods and weave a long, cylindrical basket, much like a farm basket but elongated. It should be roughly two feet in length and one foot in diameter. Keep the weave tight and even. The front end should have a small opening fashioned for the bees, no larger than a finger's width, while the back end is left entirely open for now. This is the traditional form, proven by generations.
3. Plastering the Wicker Hive
Create a smooth paste from fresh cow dung and wood ash. This mixture, when dry, becomes hard and weatherproof. With your hands, smear this plaster thoroughly over the entire outside surface of the wicker hive. This seals all the small gaps, protecting the bees from rain, wind, and ants. Allow it to dry completely in the sun until it is hard to the touch.
4. Fashioning the Earthen Hive
If you have good clay, you may form a hive without weaving. Mix the clay with chopped straw to prevent cracking, adding just enough water to make it workable. Shape it into a long cylinder or bell, similar in size to the wicker hive, with thick walls. Ensure the entrance hole is smooth. Let this earthen vessel dry slowly in a shady place for many days, lest it crack in the sun.
5. Placing the Hives
Your hives should not sit directly upon the damp earth. Raise them on a platform of stones or wooden trestles. Lay the hive horizontally, with the small entrance facing outward. It is wise to tilt the hive slightly forward, so that any rain that enters may run out again. Several hives may be placed in a row.
6. Baiting the Hive and Awaiting a Swarm
In the spring, when bees are seeking new homes, you must make your hive inviting. Rub the inside with sweet-smelling herbs like lemon balm, or paint it with a thin wash of honey and water. A wild swarm, drawn by the scent, may choose your hive for its own. Patience is required; nature moves at its own pace. Check the hives every few days from a respectful distance.
7. Observing the New Colony
Once a swarm has occupied your hive, interfere as little as possible. Your duty is to observe. Watch the entrance to see that the bees are busy, bringing in pollen of various colors. This indicates a healthy, laying queen and a growing colony. Ensure their water source remains clean and protect the hive from lizards, wasps, and other pests.
8. Judging the Time of Harvest
Prudence dictates that you never take all the honey. A strong colony feels heavy when lifted. The harvest is best done in late summer, after the main nectar flow has ceased. Only take honey from a colony that is populous and has clearly stored a surplus. A weak colony must be left with all its stores to survive the winter. A greedy beekeeper will soon have no bees at all.
9. Harvesting the Honey and Wax
On a calm, sunny day, bring your smoker. Gently puff cool smoke into the entrance, which calms the bees and drives them toward the front of the hive. Quietly remove the stone or covering from the rear. With a knife, carefully cut away only the rearmost combs, which are filled with honey. Leave the front combs, which contain the young brood. Work calmly and deliberately. Take only what you need, then seal the hive again.
10. Pressing the Comb
Take the harvested combs to a clean place. Cut them into pieces and place them in a cloth bag. Squeeze and press the bag firmly to extract the pure honey, which should be strained and stored in clean earthenware jars. The remaining wax can be melted in a pot of hot water. The pure wax will rise to the surface, where it can be collected once it cools and hardens. Nothing should be wasted.
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