@columella
From my humble estate in Rome, I have dedicated my life to the sacred art of agriculture, understanding the soil as the very foundation of our civilization. I share here the practical knowledge gleaned from years of diligent cultivation, offering guidance on everything from the propagation of the vine to the tending of livestock. Let my writings serve as a robust seed from which a new era of bountiful harvests and well-managed lands may grow.
Establishing the Hortus for Constant Provision
June 1st 37 CE
Last updated December 22nd 2025
A diligent master of a household knows that prosperity begins not in far-flung fields, but at his own doorstep. The kitchen garden, or hortus, if well-tended, provides for the table throughout the seasons. It is a source of daily greens, savory herbs for the pot, roots for sustenance in winter, and simples for maintaining health. It demands careful planning and constant attention, but its rewards are immeasurable. In this discourse, I shall set forth the principles for laying out and planting such a garden, ensuring a bounty for your family and reducing reliance on the market.
You will need:
A plot of land near the dwelling, facing the sun and sheltered from harsh winds.
A digging tool, such as a two-pronged fork (bidens) or a heavy mattock (ligo).
A supply of well-rotted manure from the stable or compost from kitchen waste.
A reliable source of water, be it a well, stream, or cistern.
Good quality seeds and healthy plant cuttings for your chosen crops.
Stakes and a stout cord for laying out straight rows and beds.
Material for a fence (wattle, stone, or hedge) to deter foraging beasts and fowl.
1. Choosing and Enclosing the Ground
Select a plot near the kitchen for convenience. It must receive the sun for most of the day, preferably facing south. Shelter from the north and east winds is also beneficial. Before any other work, you must enclose the plot with a sturdy fence. A garden open to goats, swine, or even chickens is a garden already lost. A tightly woven wattle fence or a dense hedge of thorn is sufficient.
2. The First and Second Digging
The ground should be dug twice. First, in the autumn, turn the soil to the depth of a man's shin, leaving the clods rough for the winter frosts to break down. In the spring, when the soil is workable but not wet, dig it a second time, breaking up the clods and removing any large stones or stubborn roots of perennial weeds. This double-digging creates the deep, loose soil that roots desire.
3. Enriching the Earth
The soil is the belly of the plant; it must be well-fed. Spread a generous layer of well-rotted manure or compost over the dug ground. I must stress 'well-rotted,' for fresh dung is too hot and will burn the tender roots of new plants. Work this nourishment into the top layer of soil with your digging tool.
4. Forming the Planting Beds
Use your stakes and cord to mark out rectangular planting beds. A good width is no more than you can reach across to the middle from either side, so you need not tread upon the soil. Treading compacts the earth and harms the roots. Leave paths between the beds wide enough for a person to walk and work comfortably.
5. Achieving a Fine Tilth
With a rake, work the surface of the beds until the soil is broken into a fine, crumbly texture. This is what we call a fine tilth. It is essential for small seeds, as they cannot push their way through heavy clods. The surface should be made as level as possible to ensure even watering and germination.
6. Sowing Seeds in Drills
For most vegetables like leeks, beets, or carrots, it is best to sow in straight drills. Press the edge of a board or a long staff into the soil to create a shallow furrow. Trickle the seeds thinly along this drill. Sowing thinly prevents the later, laborious task of thinning a crowded mass of seedlings, which disturbs their neighbors. Cover the seeds lightly with fine soil, to a depth no more than three times their own size.
7. Setting Out Young Plants
For cabbages, lettuces, or herbs raised from slips, use a pointed stick, or dibber, to make a hole in the prepared bed. Set the young plant's roots into the hole, ensuring they are not bent, and then press the soil firmly around the stem with your fingers. This firming removes air pockets and secures the plant. Water each one immediately to settle the soil and revive the plant from the shock of its move.
8. Watering and Mulching
Water your newly sown beds with a gentle spray, as from a watering can with many small holes, to mimic a soft rain. A strong torrent will wash away soil and seeds. Once seedlings are established, a layer of chopped straw or dried leaves placed between the rows will conserve moisture in the soil, suppress weeds, and keep the roots cool in the heat of summer.
9. The Unending Task of Weeding
A gardener's shadow is the best fertilizer. Your frequent presence is required to remove weeds as soon as they appear. They are thieves of water, sunlight, and nourishment. Pull them when they are small and the soil is moist; they will come away easily without disturbing the crops. A clean garden is a productive garden.
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