@jethrotull
I am Jethro Tull, and I've long held that the soil, like any good mechanism, responds best to careful, empirical treatment, not superstition. Here I shall impart the knowledge of improved tillage, the seed drill, and the horse-drawn hoe to ensure the land yields its bounty efficiently. Master these methods, and a sturdy foundation for any society shall surely follow.
How to Modify a Common Plough for Proper Tillage
June 8th 1695
Last updated December 2nd 2025
It is a lamentable fact that most men who work the land do so by blind tradition. The common plough is a clumsy instrument, serving only to turn over great, useless clods of earth, leaving the roots of good crops to starve in a prison of compacted soil. I have observed that plants, like animals, require pasture. Their pasture is the fine, pulverised earth from which their roots draw sustenance. This guide, born not of superstition but of mechanical and agricultural principle, will instruct you on how to modify a simple plough to properly pulverize the soil, creating a true seed-bed and vastly improving your harvest. Let us abandon the ignorance of our forefathers and apply reason to the soil.
You will need:
A standard wooden beam plough, of the common sort.
Two lengths of seasoned hardwood, preferably oak or ash, for a secondary beam and braces.
Sufficient iron stock for forging two or more new coulters (vertical cutting blades).
A forge and anvil, or access to a blacksmith's workshop.
Woodworking tools: a sharp saw, an auger or drill, a wood chisel, and a mallet.
Strong iron bolts with nuts, or alternately, well-made wooden pegs and wedges.
A measuring rule and a scribing tool for marking wood and iron.
1. Observe the Existing Instrument
Before you take a tool to it, you must first understand the plough you possess. Examine the main beam, the handles, the share which cuts horizontally, and the mouldboard which turns the soil. Note its construction and its weaknesses. A clear understanding of the original design is the first step toward its rational improvement.
2. Forge the New Coulters
The heart of this improvement lies in adding more cutting surfaces. From your iron stock, forge two new coulters. These are, in essence, strong, sharp knives that will mount vertically. They must be hammered to a keen edge and tempered to hold that edge against stone and root. Their purpose is to slice the earth before the share ever reaches it.
3. Construct a Secondary Beam
The existing plough beam is insufficient to hold our new implements in their correct positions. From your hardwood, fashion a shorter, secondary beam. This beam will run parallel to the main one and will be the housing for your new coulters. Ensure it is straight and sturdy, for it will bear considerable strain.
4. Position and Drill the Beams
Lay the secondary beam alongside the main beam. It must be positioned so the new coulters will cut the earth to one side of the main furrow. Mark the positions for the mounting bolts that will join the two beams. Then, mark the mortices on the secondary beam where your new coulters will pass through. Precision here is paramount. Use your auger to drill the holes.
5. Set the First New Coulter
Mount the first of your new coulters into the secondary beam. It should be positioned to slice the earth about two inches to the side of the main coulter or ploughshare's path. Secure it tightly with wooden wedges or a bolt. Its depth should be set to match the ploughing depth, ensuring it cuts the full thickness of the furrow slice.
6. Set the Second New Coulter
Mount the second new coulter in the secondary beam behind the first, and another two inches or so to the side. The principle is to create a series of parallel cuts. Each blade prepares the soil for the next, progressively weakening the clod until it is ready to be shattered by the mouldboard. They must not follow the same path.
7. Mount the Assembly to the Plough
With the coulters firmly set in the secondary beam, you will now affix this entire assembly to the main beam of the plough using your iron bolts. Bolt it securely in at least two places to prevent any twisting or shifting during the rigours of fieldwork. The entire structure must act as one solid instrument.
8. Test and Make Adjustments
Take your improved engine to the field. It will require more draught power, so be prepared. Observe its action on the soil. Does the earth fall away from the mouldboard in a fine tilth, or does it still turn in clumps? You must adjust the depth and spacing of the coulters until you achieve a satisfactory pulverization. The earth itself is your truest guide.
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